News

by Steve Renshaw

Here’s a good way to start an argument amongst a group of CAMRA members. Ask them what they think of Wetherspoon’s pubs. Then sit back and watch the sparks fly.

JD Wetherspoon is known for cask ale, low prices, long opening hours, and no music. The chain is also famous for converting large premises such as cinemas, post offices and banks, into pubs. Tim Martin, founder and chairman, opened his first pub, Martin’s, in Muswell Hill in 1979. The company is now the UK’s largest managed pub chain, with over 860 pubs and bars.

Mr Martin is well known for his outspoken views on a wide range of topics. The JD Wetherspoon name comes from one of his teachers in New Zealand who said that Martin would never make it as a businessman.

The company plans to open 30 new pubs across the UK in 2013. In the early days, it was difficult to acquire ready-made, licensed premises. Hence, the classic ‘Spoons is a large pub in a converted bank or cinema. However, now that cash-strapped pubcos are looking to offload real estate, Wetherspoons are taking some of these sites on. One such is the New Angel Hotel on the harbour at Whitby, which is due to open at the end of March.

The price of a pint in a Wetherspoons is significantly less than that in most other pubs. This is the result of high-volume sales and tight margins. For most breweries, the company is a good customer. Whilst they do not pay the best prices, brewers’ invoices are paid on time. However, some breweries, for example Castle Rock in Nottingham, will not deal with Wetherspoons on principle.

So if they’re opening new pubs, serving cheap real ale and giving CAMRA members discount vouchers, why don’t we all love Wetherspoons? Well, some people are concerned about the market dominance of the company. They liken their impact on town centre pubs to that of supermarkets on local shops.

We have three Wetherspoons outlets in the city: the Forum, the Ritz and the Square Sail. Clearly, these impact on nearby pubs, but this need not be terminal. The competition has to work hard to provide the things that a Wetherspoons doesn’t, such as a homely atmosphere or live music. The Treaty of Commerce and the Jolly Brewer are examples of what can be done.

Of course, Wetherspoons are not just in competition with pubs. I’m guessing that some of the cafés in Whitby are very concerned about the cheap meals and coffee that the New Angel will be serving.

My personal view is that Wetherspoons has a very successful formula and a large and loyal customer base. Although their pubs inevitably impact on nearby businesses, good pubs can still prosper if they can offer an alternative. Having such a major chain supporting real ale and local microbreweries certainly keeps our traditional British tipple in the public eye.

So off I went to the Ritz for my beer tasting. This iconic city landmark is a good example of the company’s use of an unwanted building, with the interior celebrating its former glories.

And what about the beer? It was a cold day, so I chose Winter Warmth (4.6% ABV) from the Great Newsome Brewery in East Yorkshire. This ruby-coloured ale is a classic, seasonal brew with raisin and spice flavours and a bitter finish. Well, if my mum could drink a cup of tea in the summer to cool her down, I can have a beer to warm me up.

To find out more about the Campaign for Real Ale in Lincoln, visit www.lincolncamra.org.uk

by Steve Renshaw

Pubs in Lincoln are expensive and don’t support local microbreweries. These are common observations by visitors to the city. Clearly, they are generalisations and there are notable exceptions. But, based on my travels, I find it difficult to disagree. The reasons are complicated, but one of the major factors is the ownership of our pubs.

In the good old days, most pubs belonged to the local breweries. They were tied houses – they only sold their brewery’s beer. Independent pubs became known as free houses, and could buy their beer from any brewer,

Things changed after the second world war, when brewery mergers began. By the 1980s, the Big Six brewers owned more than half of the country’s pubs and produced 75% of its beer. Mrs Thatcher’s government was concerned about the lack of competition and, in 1989, issued the Beer Orders. Brewers were not allowed to own more than 2,000 pubs, and had to give landlords the option of selling at least one guest beer produced by a rival.

Because the big brewers weren’t prepared to open up their pubs to other brewers’ beers, they came up with something new – pub companies – to which they sold all their pubs. As these “pubcos” didn’t brew beer themselves, they were exempt from the legislation.

So, today, we have a situation where around half of pubs in the UK are owned by pubcos. These pubs have to buy their beer only from the pubco, at a price up to 50% more than a free-of-tie publican pays. Alongside this, pubco licensees often find themselves paying rents that are above the market rate.

Around Lincoln, we have very few free houses, so there isn’t the same level of competition as in many other towns. Hence the higher prices in our pubs. And, as the pubcos broker deals with the bigger brewers, microbreweries have found it difficult to get beer into their pubs.

For some years, CAMRA has campaigned against the unfair practices of pubcos. This came to fruition last month, when the government announced a new, statutory code to ensure fair practices for a number of issues, including rents and the prices publicans pay for beer. It will enshrine the fundamental principle that “a tied licensee should be no worse off than a free-of-tie licensee”.

The Code is expected to apply to all companies owning more than 500 tied leases. Regional family brewers, such as Batemans, who have used the beer tie for over a century to guarantee a market for their beer, will be exempt.

One development that has benefitted microbreweries is the Society of Independent Brewers’ Direct Delivery Scheme. A number of pubcos, including big boys Punch Taverns and Enterprise Inns, allow some of their licensees to source beer brewed within 30 miles of the pub, via the scheme.

I visited The Strugglers Inn, a Punch pub on Westgate, to find out what can be achieved within the constraints of a pubco lease. Apart from snacks, there is no food on offer, so the pub stands or falls on the quality and diversity of its beers.

There are eight handpumps on the bar. By using Punch’s core and guest beer lists and direct delivery to the best advantage, landlady, Anna, managed to serve 386 different real ales during 2012. And the quality has been recognised with the award of CAMRA’s Lincolnshire Pub of the Year in 2010 and 2012.

And what about the beer? 8 Sail Brewery’s Victorian Porter (5% ABV) is produced in the shadow of Heckington’s famous windmill. It’s a full-bodied, beer dominated by dark malt flavours, but with hints of berry fruits and some bitterness at the end. Perfect after a winter’s walk.

Find out more about CAMRA’s campaigns at www.camra.org.uk/campaigns.

by Steve Renshaw

Do football and beer go together? Well, not if you’re playing. However, there’s certainly a very close relationship between them.

Football sells beer. That’s why the global brewers spend millions sponsoring clubs and tournaments. The Champions League is sponsored by Heineken, and we’ve now got the FA Cup with Budweiser. (Does anyone else feel uneasy about our oldest cup competition being linked to an American brand?) And pub landlords pay thousands to Sky so they can screen live matches to attract drinkers.

However, the relationship between beer and the beautiful game has not always been so straightforward. In Victorian times, churches and, in particular, the influential temperance movement, saw football as a way of attracting young men away from the demon drink. When the factory hooters sounded at noon on a Saturday, the workers would go to play or watch a match instead of spending all afternoon in the nearest pub.

William McGregor, who founded the Football League in 1888, was a committed Christian. Of the twelve original clubs, Aston Villa, Bolton Wanderers, Everton and Wolverhampton Wanderers had started out as church teams.

But pub landlords also recognised the business potential of the increasingly popular game. Pubs had rooms for club meetings and, in many cases, adjacent land that could be used for pitches. Pubs soon developed close relationships with local teams.

When the game turned professional and clubs became businesses, wealthy local brewers were often on the management boards. In 1892, John Houlding, a prominent Liverpudlian brewer, fell out with fellow board members at Everton. As a result, Everton moved from their Anfield ground and Holding established Liverpool FC. Closer to home, Lincoln City played on the John O’Gaunt’s ground provided by brewer Robert Dawber, prior to moving to Sincil Bank in 1895.

Although church involvement in professional football diminished, it continued at local level well into the 20th century. As a boy growing up in Sheffield, I would go to the rec on Saturday afternoon to watch the local chapel team playing in the Bible Class League.

But, from the 1960s, Sunday league football began to take hold. Pub leagues, as they were called, sprang up across the country. As church-going declined and licensing hours changed, young men could play a game on Sunday morning and then retire to the local for a reviving ale or two. Today, Sunday leagues are ubiquitous, while bible class leagues have long since folded.

Looking at the tables of the Lincoln Sunday League, it’s clear that the links with pubs are still strong. As I was doing my research, one result caught my eye. In a top-of-the-table Division One clash, Anglers FC had beaten Metheringham to maintain their 100% record.

The Anglers in Saxilby is a regular in the Good Beer Guide and landlord, Mike Brown, has recently won a long-service award from the pub company, Star Pubs & Bars (formerly the Scottish & Newcastle Pub Company).

The pub is at the heart of the village in all senses. The football club is one of many groups based there. On the evening we visited, they were getting ready for a poker session. And, as with all good community pubs, raising money for charity is a big feature. Over the years, Mike has helped raise thousands of pounds for St Barnabas Hospice.

And what about the beer? Good Elf (4.3% ABV) is a seasonal special from Thwaites Brewery in Blackburn. It’s a dark brown ale with hints of cloves and cinnamon, and just a suggestion of apple in the aftertaste.

Look out for the new edition of our magazine, ImpAle, coming to a pub near you soon.

by Steve Renshaw

At the beginning of last month, CAMRA announced the latest pub closure statistics. And the bad news was that pubs across the country are now closing at the rate of 18 per week, compared with 12 a week six months ago.

But, in the same week that these figures were released, we in Lincoln had a very unusual occurrence – a brand new pub opened. But the Strait and Narrow, in what used to be a catalogue shop at the bottom of Steep Hill, isn’t an ordinary pub. It describes itself as a continental-style beer bar. If you’ve been to the Pivni Bar in York, you’ll be familiar with the concept.

Yes, I know that CAMRA champions traditional British beer, but we’re very happy to celebrate the brewing traditions of other countries. That’s why we have an international bottled beer bar at the Lincoln Beer Festival.

“Wait a minute,” I hear someone saying, “most pubs have a selection of international beers. There’s draught beer from Belgium, Holland, Australia and Ireland, plus bottles from Mexico, Italy and the USA.”

Not so! Most of the familiar beer brands belong to the huge, multinational brewers. For example, AB InBev, the world’s largest brewer, owns Budweiser, Corona, Stella Artois and Becks, to name but a few. Even Draught Bass, a favourite of many real-ale drinkers, has been brewed under contract by Marston’s for AB InBev since 2005. And as for Guinness, there’s enough for a full column on that subject.

Most of the global-brand beer drunk here is produced in large, UK brew-factories. And, despite what the PR men try to tell you, they may not have remained true to their original recipes. Because of the British penchant for gulping beer from pint pots, rather than the more delicate glasses used in European bars, a number of popular draught lagers are lower in alcohol than the original versions.

So, on a rainy Monday evening, we went to the Strait and Narrow to try an authentic, continental beer. The well-designed interior is open plan, with drinking areas on different levels. There’s standing room near the bar and plenty of comfortable seating. The exposed brick walls and wooden floor give a minimalist feel which contrasts with the chandelier light fittings.

The choice of beers is extensive, with five real ales (including two from Lincolnshire microbreweries) and a selection of UK and continental keg beers. But it was the bottled beer menu, with its 100-plus entries, that I was interested in.

I was looking for something from Belgium, the beer centre of the universe. As the menu didn’t specify the countries of origin, I had to rely on my hazy memories of a long weekend in Brussels. The terms Trappist and gueuze were familiar, but then I picked out a brand you wouldn’t forget.

Kwak is produced by Bosteels Brewery in Buggenhout, Belgium. The brewery was founded in 1791 and is still owned and operated by the same family. In Belgium, it’s served in a round-bottomed glass which comes with a wooden stand. So many of these glasses are stolen that some bars ask you to leave one of your shoes as a deposit. Sensibly, the Strait and Narrow has not invested in these receptacles.

And what about the beer? Kwak is deep amber in colour and tastes of buttery caramel and malt, with almost no hoppiness. At 8.4% ABV, it’s a beer to be savoured at a very leisurely pace. Which is just what I did, while watching pedestrians trudge along the rain-lashed Strait.

To find out what’s happening in pubs in and around Lincoln, follow us on Twitter @Lincoln_CAMRA.

by Steve Renshaw

The number of young people regularly drinking in pubs has slumped over the last few years. A recent study of the drinking habits of 18 to 24-year-olds carried out by CAMRA shows the number visiting pubs at least once a week has fallen from 38% to 16% in the past seven years. This is particularly bad news for the future viability of pubs.

One of the things that enterprising publicans are doing to attract a younger clientele is to put on live music, whether it’s karaoke, open mic nights or paid performers. But, of course, musical entertainment in pubs is nothing new. From their early days, beer houses had provided entertainment of some sort, be it singing, gaming or sport.

Music hall evolved from sing-songs in pub. In the 1830s, landlords set aside back rooms in their pubs for ‘saloon concerts’. By the 1850s many inns had their own halls for simple theatre and concerts. Indeed, some public houses were demolished and music hall theatres were built in their place.

In the 1880s, George Palmer, landlord of the Brown Cow Inn on Broadgate, used a room on the first floor of his premises as an entertainment hall. For some time, variety artists, some of whom became top-of-the-bill stars, visited the city and appeared there. Among them was Dan Leeson, the big-booted dancer, who performed in footwear measuring 30 inches in length.

A few years later, the Brown Cow changed its name to the Unity Arms and, later, the Unity Hotel. The most recent name change came in 1982, when the Jolly Brewer came into existence.

And the story comes full circle in 2004 when landlady, Emma Chapman, took over. Part of her original business plan was to have occasional live music in the pub. This proved to be so popular that it has become a major feature. When the beer garden was developed in 2005, a stage was built to accommodate bigger gigs.

So, to complete my research, I joined a group of young CAMRA members in the Brewer for a Friday evening session. The first thing you notice is the colourful, Art-Deco-style décor. But the other striking feature was the number of young people enjoying the lively atmosphere. And this isn’t a nightclub-style venue with nowhere to sit down! In fact, it was CAMRA’s Lincolnshire Pub of the Year in 2011.

After a couple of pints, we drifted outside to check out the headline act. Despite the rain, the sizeable crowd was rocking along with Knock Out Kaine, described in the flyer as ‘the Kings of Cock Rock’. Winner of KERRANG!’s Best Unsigned Live Act 2007/08, the band has just released a debut album.

I managed to last a couple of numbers before retiring inside with ears bleeding. One more pint and I was off in search of a taxi, happy in the knowledge that plenty of young people in Lincoln are enjoying what a good pub has to offer. Just a pity there wasn’t a big-booted dancer on the bill!

And what about the beer? Emma is a great supporter of local breweries. In fact, three of the six real ales on offer that evening were brewed within 25 miles of Lincoln. I chose Mowbray’s Mash from the Oldershaw Brewery in Grantham which, at 3.7% ABV, is an ideal session ale. When I put my pint on one of the sparkly tables, reflected light danced in the clear, amber liquid. As always at the Brewer, the beer was in tip-top condition, and I found the balance of biscuity malt and hoppy bitterness really refreshing.

To find out more about the Campaign for Real Ale in Lincoln, visit www.lincolncamra.org.uk

by Steve Renshaw

This month, I’m off to Newark to visit the pub that has beaten our own Strugglers Inn to be named CAMRA’s East Midlands Pub of the Year. And Just Beer isn’t an ordinary pub – it’s a micropub!

Most beer drinkers are familiar with the idea of a microbrewery. The term has been used since the late 1970s to describe the new generation of small breweries which focus on producing traditional cask ale. But a micropub?

At CAMRA’s 2009 AGM in Eastbourne, we heard how the Licensing Act 2003 had made it easier to set up a new pub. Martyn Hillier had turned a former butcher’s shop in the Kent village of Herne into a tiny pub. The micropub formula that he developed involved converting an existing (small) premises, selling real ale with no lager whatsoever, and promoting lively chat with no music.

Former chairman of Newark CAMRA, Phil Ayling, who was in the audience that day, was inspired to have a go himself. He got together with three other enthusiasts to work on the project.

The search for suitable premises took them to the Swan and Salmon Yard, close to Newark Castle. The unit had originally been part of the stables of a nearby coaching inn. Following extensive building work, Just Beer opened its doors in August 2010. At 8.5 metres by 3.5 metres and with a limit of 57 customers at any one time, it’s one of the biggest of the micropubs that have sprung up across the country.

The aim of the four “tapsters” was to provide the best features of a traditional pub. They seek out beers from microbreweries across the country that are not normally found in the town, and also support local brewers. The beer is served in oversize glasses so you can be sure of getting a full pint. Tasting notes are provided and, if you’re not sure what to choose, they’ll give you a sample. There’s no TV or gaming machine so, in the confined space, lively conversations can develop.

On weekdays, four ales are available, with five or six at the weekend. There are no regular beers and there’s always a dark ale available. A board over the bar gives the number of different beers served since they opened; on the day I visited, the total stood at 1,310.

If you can’t find a beer you like, there’s traditional cider and a perry. The only other drinks are red or white wine, cola or water. You certainly won’t find any keg beers or trendy bottles.

When they first started, there was no food on offer, but they now have crisps and snacks for drinkers with the munchies. The platter of local cheese and biscuits looked very tempting.

Since Just Beer opened, business has built steadily. They’re now selling around 1,000 pints each week plus cider and perry, with relatively low overheads. And being voted one of the top sixteen pubs in the country can’t harm trade, can it?

And what about the beer? I couldn’t resist trying the latest brew from Project Venus, the occasional collaboration of brewsters (women brewers) from across the country. Sugar & Spice (4.6% ABV) was produced at Brentwood Brewing Company in Essex. It’s a pale gold colour and was fermented with honey and root ginger. I’m not usually a fan of beer with added ingredients, but this mix was very subtle. There was some early sweetness, and the hops and ginger combined to produce a wonderful aftertaste that stayed with me for most of the journey back to Lincoln.

To find out more about the Campaign for Real Ale in Lincoln, visit www.lincolncamra.org.uk